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Correio newspaper | ‘Katuka has a political commitment’, says Renato Carneiro about the brand’s relationship with fashion

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MINI DOCS AFRO FASHION DAY

‘Katuka has a political commitment’, says Renato Carneiro about the brand’s relationship with fashion

Stylist recalls his career at AFD and the main changes in Katuka Africanidades’ looks

  • Photo by author Luiza Gonçalves

Published on October 24, 2024 at 07:00

'Katuka has a political commitment', says Renato Carneiro about the brand's relationship with fashion

‘Katuka has a political commitment’, says Renato Carneiro about the brand’s relationship with fashion Credit: CORREIO/Gabriel Cerqueira

Katuka is a word from the African Bantu language that can be understood as an imperative: “Get out!”. At first, it may not seem very welcoming to give a store that name, but for 17 years Katuka Africanidades has been provoking Salvadorans to leave a place of stagnation and connect with blackness through literature, arts and fashion.

Renato Carneiro is one of the brand’s partners and is responsible for the creative processes and execution of fashion pieces worn by the city’s personalities, anonymous people and, since 2014, the Afro Fashion Day models: “I think Afro has great importance because it ends up being a showcase. If I want to know what is happening in black fashion in the city of Salvador today, that is the place where I will find names, image references, the work of brands and creators”, says the designer.

Clothes became part of Katuka’s activities based on Renato’s personal desire: the desire to have clothes on the market that not only looked after him physically, but also in terms of his identity. They also came about through the influence of his father, Claudionor, who was a seamstress. Carneiro decided to seek references and study design to “be able to create with greater excellence”, as he says, and began to sell the pieces. The interest was never in producing on a large scale. Renato highlights that, although the economic factor is important, his biggest commitment in fashion is to produce clothes that dialogue with black identity and references, taking inspiration from African shapes and fabrics, researching new aesthetics and respecting the production chain and the collective of people. processes.

“Katuka has a commitment that is political, so this makes our view of fashion also different. I can’t think of fashion just as a product, just as a possibility of exchange. We build our thinking about fashion, understanding it as another necessary tool for raising black self-esteem, for facing the conflicts and tensions we have, seen from a racial, gender and social point of view”, he argues. .

A trajectory of a lot of reading and immersion, factors that, for Renato, made the difference in the production of the pieces. Revisiting his productions from the previous years of Afro, he points out some details that marked the process: looks of linen and African fabrics, the mix between traditional silhouette and a touch of modernity, new dyeing techniques, textures, techniques and finishes.

“I think time brings a certain security, and this security allows for boldness. When I see the pieces, the first pieces, and I see the latest editions, I can see greater freedom. In creation, even in the proposal. Another thing that time brought was technical improvement. I think that, in this ten-year trajectory, we also achieved this. That comes with equipment, that comes with research. Now, there is an element of permanence, which is coherence. A possible aesthetic that was executed within social responsibility, with everyone involved in the process. I think that’s the coolest thing”, reflects the designer.

See the complete mini-doc about Katuka Africanidades:

Mini docs Afro Fashion Day:

Media and Digital Strategy Editor: Jorge Gauthier

Culture intern: Luiza Gonçalves

Media team: Eduardo Bastos, Arthur Leal and Gabriel Cerqueira

Afro Fashion Day is a project by the newspaper Correio with sponsorship from Avon and Bracell, support from CAIXA, Shopping Barra, Salvador Bahia Airport and Wilson Sons and institutional support from Sebrae

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Michelle Williams

I'm Michelle Williams, an enthusiastic author specializing in captivating entertainment content on Rwcglobally.com. With a passion for storytelling and a keen eye for the latest trends, I aim to engage readers with compelling narratives that reflect the dynamic landscape of the entertainment industry. Join me on Rwcglobally.com to explore the world of film, television, music, and more, as we uncover the stories that define contemporary culture.

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